![]() I went ahead and got it installed in the #0 Series One cockpit, right behind the seat: Here’s a video showing how the whole thing operates: Each spring is rated for about 15lbs of compression force. The springs are held in place using 3M VHB (Very High Bond) double-sided tape. When this sucker is going, EVERYTHING shakes. Unlike Roland’s setup, I didn’t insulate the shaker from the rest of the cockpit. When the motor moves up and down, it’ll transmit that vibration to the rest of the cockpit. The motor is connected to an offset shaft that is fixed in place to the base platform. The green blocks next to the motor are a pair of lead C/G weights that I removed years ago from the nose of my F-15C. I followed the example of another BFF Shaker builder (Roland) and built a motor platform that rides on four springs. (You can use the “buttkicker” alone if you don’t want to build the motor drive system that I show here.)ģ – A Pololu 36v15 motor driver – this takes 24VDC in and allows the SHKR-1 to control a DC motor. It also has an output that you can use to drive a “buttkicker” speaker. ![]() This controller board can drive two of the Pololu motor driver simultaneously. This serial cable is how the host software controls the SHKR-1.Ģ – The SHKR-1 board itself. The documentation for the SHKR-1 talks about the software you’ll need to do this. Note that in order to use this cable with the SHKR-1, you’ll need to invert the TX, RX, CTS and RTS pins. I started my setup with the SHKR-1 board and the 36v15 motor driver from Pololu:ġ – an FTDI USB/Serial cable from SparkFun. It’s called the BFF Shaker and can be found here: Some time ago I found a really slick feedback system for DIY cockpit builders – a “shaker” system that pulled data out of the simulator in order to run a motor that would be capable of shaking your entire cockpit. I don’t know if I’ll finish the design, but it was a fun design lesson and an interesting print. The rocking lever that goes on the face of the grip would hit the switches as it is rocked from top or bottom. ![]() Here’s a photo I shamelessly lifted from Digikey’s website: The square pockets shown in the second photo are there to take a C&K 8221 tactile push-button switch. With a 0.35mm nozzle, it would be closer to 5 to 7 hours. At 0.5mm it took roughly 2 hours to complete. My choice would be to do the lettering as a post-production step because the smaller nozzle diameter would dramatically increase the print time of the part. Last, you could print it flat and then mechanically engrave the lettering in post production. Increase the size of the lettering (not really practical), print with a smaller diameter nozzle – this was printed on a. This could be fixed in one of three ways. It roughly translates to “Coarse” and “Fine”.Īs you can see, the lettering didn’t turn out at all. The lettering on the face of the grip relates to the control that hinges in the center of the grip – it controls propeller pitch. I test printed a model today that I created last week based on SimHQ posting I saw. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |